Frequently Asked Questions
Do breeders offer local pickup?
Many do. Listings indicate pickup availability and typical meetup locations. Always coordinate timing to reduce stress on the fish.
How do I contact a breeder?
Open the breeder page to see contact options (site, email, social). Use the contact form when available and keep messages clear and concise.
How do I cycle a new aquarium?
Establish the nitrogen cycle before adding fish. Feed bottled bacteria or an ammonia source, then wait for ammonia and nitrite to read 0 ppm and nitrate to appear. This usually takes 2–6 weeks; seeded media speeds it up.
What water parameters should I target?
Aim for ammonia 0 ppm, nitrite 0 ppm, and nitrate ideally under 20–40 ppm. Keep temperature, pH, GH, and KH stable and within the range suited to your species—stability beats chasing exact numbers.
How often should I change water?
Most stocked tanks benefit from 25–50% weekly changes. Adjust based on nitrate trends, stocking level, and feeding. Use dechlorinator for tap water.
Do I need dechlorinator for tap water?
Yes, if your supply has chlorine or chloramine. Use a conditioner that neutralizes both; chloramine treatment may leave bound ammonia for your biofilter to process.
Should I use RO/DI water?
Only if your tap is unsuitable (very hard/soft or unstable). Remineralize RO/DI to match your fish’s needs; never use pure RO/DI without minerals.
What’s the ideal temperature for tropical fish?
Most tropical species thrive at 74–80°F (23–27°C). Goldfish prefer cooler 65–75°F (18–24°C). Always research species-specific ranges.
How often should I feed and what foods are best?
Feed small portions 1–2× daily, with a weekly “fast” day for adults. Use varied high‑quality pellets/flakes plus frozen/live foods to enhance health and color.
How many fish can I keep? Is “inch per gallon” accurate?
That rule is outdated. Stock based on adult size, behavior, footprint, and filtration. Err on the side of under‑stocking for better water quality.
What filter size and maintenance do I need?
Choose a filter rated for at least your tank volume (often 1.5–2× is safer). Rinse media in old tank water—never tap—to preserve beneficial bacteria.
How do I clean substrate safely?
Use a gravel vacuum during water changes. Deep‑vac non‑planted areas; gently surface‑vac planted tanks to avoid disturbing roots.
How long should lights be on? How do I prevent algae?
Start with 6–8 hours daily. Avoid direct sunlight, don’t overfeed, and maintain regular water changes. Balance light, nutrients, and plant biomass.
Do I need to quarantine new fish?
Yes—quarantine 4–6 weeks in a separate, cycled tank. Observe for disease, treat if needed, and avoid “shotgun” meds unless signs warrant.
What’s the best way to acclimate new fish?
Float the bag 15–20 minutes to match temperature. For sensitive species/inverts, drip acclimate (2–4× bag volume per hour). Discard bag water and quarantine.
How do I spot and respond to disease?
Watch for clamped fins, flashing, white spots, lethargy, or loss of appetite. First check water parameters; isolate affected fish and treat in a hospital tank.
When should I use aquarium salt?
Salt can help with nitrite toxicity and some parasites. Avoid high doses with scaleless fish (e.g., loaches, Corydoras) and many plants. Use measured doses only.
Are UV sterilizers worth it?
UV can reduce free‑floating algae and pathogen load if sized correctly and bulbs are replaced regularly. It’s a helpful tool, not a cure‑all.
What’s my plan for power outages?
Have battery air pumps, keep filters wet, insulate the tank, and avoid feeding. Manual aeration (gently agitating water) helps maintain oxygen.
Can I keep goldfish with tropical fish?
Generally no—goldfish prefer cooler water and are heavy waste producers. House them with other goldfish or cold‑tolerant, compatible species only.
Are Bettas community fish?
Males are territorial; many do best solo. If attempting a community, avoid fin‑nippers and bright, long‑finned fish. Provide plants and line‑of‑sight breaks.
What are good community tankmates?
Match size, temperament, and water needs. Examples: Corydoras, small Rasboras/Tetras, peaceful Livebearers, and dwarf Plecos—research per species first.
How do I prepare for breeding?
Condition pairs with varied foods, provide spawning sites (mops, caves, flat stones), and set up a grow‑out tank. Feed fry infusoria, micro‑worms, and baby brine shrimp; change small amounts of water often.
Should my hospital/quarantine tank be planted?
Keep it simple: bare bottom, seasoned sponge filter, heater, and hiding spots (PVC). This makes observation and dosing easier.
How do I maintain biosecurity between tanks?
Use dedicated nets and tools per tank or disinfect (dilute bleach, then dechlorinate and dry). Wash hands and equipment between systems.
Can I reuse old filter media in a new setup?
Yes—move wet media to seed a new filter and prevent cycle stalls. Keep it submerged in tank water during transfers.
Do breeders offer local pickup?
Many do. Listings indicate pickup availability and typical meetup locations. Coordinate timing and bring an insulated container to reduce stress on the fish.
How should I transport fish after pickup?
Use sealed fish bags in an insulated cooler; avoid temperature swings. Keep bags upright and dark. Acclimate slowly at home and quarantine.
What tests should I run regularly?
Use liquid kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and KH. Test weekly, after major changes, and whenever fish show stress.
How can I reduce aggression in cichlids and other semi‑aggressive fish?
Overprovide hides and sight breaks, keep compatible groups, avoid overcrowding, and match sizes. Rehome chronic aggressors if needed.
